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Diving in Pulau Weh, Aceh, Sumatra, Indonesia

Chin Mee Poon July 30, 2011 English, South East Asia 东南亚

Pulau Weh is the westernmost island of Indonesia. It lies about 16 km north of Banda Aceh, the town at the northern tip of Sumatra.

Pulau Weh looks like the alphabet “U”. It has an area of 200 sq. km. and a population of 34,000. The Indonesian people usually call the island by the name of Sabang, which is actually the name of the administrative centre of the island. Most of the islanders are Acehnese. There are also some Javanese, Chinese and other ethnic groups.

The economy on Pulau Weh is dominated by agriculture. The main products are cloves and coconuts. Small-scale fisheries operate in the area. Sabang and Balohan are the two main towns on the island. Sabang is the administrative centre and Balohan is a ferry port that provides the vital link between the island and Banda Aceh on mainland Sumatra.

Pulau Weh is ringed with beautiful beaches and amazing dive sites. Its 3 primary dive sites are Gapang, Iboih and Rubiah Island. Whale sharks, manta rays, sea turtles and dolphins can be seen in its waters. On land there are some fascinating sites including a waterfall, volcano and hot springs, the Zero Kilometre Monument, the Japanese bunkers from WWII, a historical graveyard, Durian Keramat and Sabang town.

On 26th December, 2004, a devastating underwater earthquake measuring 9.0 on the Richter Scale struck off the coast of Sumatra, causing a giant tsunami that smashed into the northern and western coastlines of Aceh Province, as well as the coastlines of Sri Lanka, Thailand, Malaysia, and even East Africa. Banda Aceh, the provincial capital, was completely devastated.

Even before the disaster, Aceh had been a province plagued by problems. The government and members of the Free Aceh Movement (or GAM) had been fighting a civil war for 30 years. GAM had been seeking independence for the oil-rich state.

One positive development emerged from the disaster. Urged on by the international community, and encouraged by the ceasefire agreed upon by both sides in the wake of the tsunami, the Indonesian government and the leaders of GAM met in Helsinki in January 2005 to discuss a peace settlement. This was eventually signed on 15th August with GAM agreeing to hand over their weapons and relinguish their demands for full independence in return for local self-government and the right to future political representation.

Tourists have returned to Aceh. My wife and I together with 11 others flew from Kuala Lumpur International Airport to Banda Aceh on 30th January 2009 and thence went over to Pulau Weh for 3 days of diving at Gapang Beach. The 10 divers among us made 8 dives during our stay at Lombah Lombah Diving Centre. Even though we did not see any whale shark, manta ray, sea turtle or dolphin, the weather was good and the diving was rewarding.

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